Curly Kale

A practical vegetable garden series

 

A beginner’s guide to ruffled leaves and winter greens.

 

Written for home gardeners in Hungary

CHAPTER WELCOME

Your curly kale season starts here

This book follows the whole journey: seed → seedling → garden → care → harvest → kitchen → next season.

Curly kale is a hardy, generous leafy vegetable that can keep producing long after summer crops are finished. Its upright stem carries a ruff of crisp, frilly leaves, and you can pick a few at a time for the kitchen. It is a satisfying crop for beginners: once established, it needs little fuss apart from water in dry spells and protection from hungry pests.

In Hungary, sow seeds from spring into early summer, then transplant sturdy young plants into their final bed. Curly kale appreciates fertile soil and room to grow. Near Győr, summer heat can dry new transplants, so water them well while they settle. Begin picking from autumn; established plants often keep supplying leaves through winter, although very severe cold may call for protection.

Our Hungarian calendar

 

 

The rule for this series: dates guide us, but the plant and the weather make the final decision.

CHAPTER 1

Meet the Curly Kale

Curly kale, also called borecole, grows a tall stem with a crown of frilly leaves.

Curly kale is a form of kale (Brassica oleracea), a member of the cabbage family. Its leaves range from green to purple and may be softly ruffled or tightly curled. Kale is usually grown as a biennial: it makes leaves in its first year, then flowers and sets seed the next. You can harvest outer leaves for months while the central growing point continues to make new ones.

Curly kale or Tuscan kale?

 

Two leaf shapes, both useful in the kitchen

·  Curly kale: broad, ruffled leaves with a crisp texture.

·  Tuscan kale: long, narrow leaves with a puckered surface.

·  Both are leafy forms of kale in the brassica family.

·  Compact varieties suit smaller gardens and large pots.

·  Pick outer leaves regularly and leave the growing tip.

·  Brassica relatives: rotate kale with cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower.

 

CHAPTER 2

Choose Your Curly Kale

Look for a variety with the leaf colour, plant size and harvest season that suit your garden.

Ask yourself five questions

1.         Would I like dark green or purple leaves?

2.         Do I have room for a large plant, or do I need a compact variety?

3.         Can I protect the leaves from birds and caterpillars?

4.         Would I like baby leaves as well as winter greens?

5.         Can I give kale fertile soil and steady water while young?

A beginner-friendly first planting

 

 

 

CHAPTER 3

Let’s Sow

Kale is easy to grow from seed, and curly types can be started in modules for tidy, sturdy transplants. Sow a few more seeds than you need, then keep the strongest seedlings. A small batch is usually enough because each mature plant can provide leaves over a long season.

When to sow in Hungary

Sow indoors or in a sheltered seedbed from March to May for plants to move into the garden in late spring or early summer. You can also sow outdoors from April to June. Make a shallow drill about 1 cm deep, water if the soil is dry, and sow seeds thinly. Thin seedbed seedlings to 10–15 cm apart, or keep one strong plant per module. Mature plants usually need 45–60 cm between them; check the packet for the variety.

What you need

·  Curly kale seeds of a variety you like

·  Modules or a small seedbed for starting seedlings

·  A hand fork, rake and watering can

·  Labels and a pencil for variety and sowing date

·  Fine insect mesh to protect young plants

Sowing, step by step

1.         Fill modules with seed compost, or prepare a weed-free seedbed.

2.         Sow seeds about 1 cm deep and cover lightly.

3.         Water gently and keep the compost or soil evenly moist.

4.         Label the variety and date; move seedlings into bright light.

5.         Thin to one strong seedling per module or 10–15 cm in the seedbed.

 

 

CHAPTER 4

Seedling School

Kale seedlings are easy to recognise once their first true leaves appear. Give them light, room and water, then plant them out while they are still young and sturdy.

Grow sturdy young plants

The first seed leaves are smooth and rounded; true leaves soon develop the familiar brassica shape. Keep seedlings bright so they do not become tall and weak. Water regularly, especially in a small module, but do not leave the compost soggy. When plants have several true leaves and are about 10–15 cm tall, they are ready to move to their final position.

Why are the seedlings stretching?

Seedlings stretch when they are too warm and do not get enough light. Move them to a brighter, cooler place and turn the tray if the plants lean. If they are still healthy, they can recover as they grow. Avoid crowding them in the seedbed; young kale needs air and light to become sturdy.

Water while they settle

Water modules before transplanting so each root ball holds together. After planting, soak the soil around each seedling and keep it moist while roots establish. Kale is tougher once mature, but new transplants can struggle in hot, dry weather. Check the bed more often during a warm spell.

Feeding

Kale grows best in fertile soil. Work mature compost or well-rotted manure into the bed before planting. Most garden soil needs no extra feed, but a poor bed or a container crop may benefit from an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser, used according to the label.

 

 

CHAPTER 5

Ready for the Real World

Move young plants into their final bed in late spring or early summer. Harden off indoor seedlings and water them in well.

Before planting: check the plants and the bed

1.         Choose sturdy seedlings with several true leaves.

2.         Water modules or seedbed plants before lifting.

3.         Harden indoor-grown seedlings gradually for about a week.

4.         Prepare fertile, firm soil and leave enough space between plants.

5.         Plant deeply, firm the soil and water each plant well.

When is it ready in Hungary?

Curly kale can be sown from spring to early summer, then planted out when seedlings are sturdy, usually from May into July. A light frost is less of a worry for established kale than for tender vegetables, but harden young plants off and protect a recent transplant if a sharp frost is forecast. Direct sowing outdoors is also possible from April to June.

Around Győr, try to have young plants established before the hottest, driest part of summer. If planting in June or July, water deeply and mulch once the soil is warm. Kale can keep cropping in autumn and winter; pick leaves during mild spells and protect plants from severe cold, strong wind and pigeons when needed.

 

 

CHAPTER 6

Give Them a Good Home

Fertile soil, good spacing and a net cover help curly kale grow into a healthy, productive plant.

The right place

Choose a sunny bed, although light shade is acceptable in a warm garden. Kale prefers rich, firm, well-drained soil. Add mature compost before planting and firm the ground so tall plants stay anchored. Rotate it away from beds recently used for other brassicas, and cover the crop with fine insect mesh to keep caterpillars, flea beetles and birds from the leaves.

Spacing

Allow about 45–60 cm between mature plants, depending on the variety, and at least 45 cm between rows. Compact types can grow closer, while tall, vigorous kales need more room. For baby-leaf harvesting, plants may be spaced much closer. Follow the seed packet and leave space to reach the lower leaves.

Planting day

1.         Water seedlings and prepare a moist, weed-free bed.

2.         Make a hole deep enough for the root ball.

3.         Set the plant slightly deeper, with the lowest leaves near the soil surface.

4.         Firm the soil around the roots and water generously.

5.         Cover with fine mesh and secure it around the bed.

Growing in pots

Choose a compact curly kale variety for a container. Use a pot at least 30 cm wide and deep, with drainage holes and fresh potting mix. Plant one mature kale per pot, water regularly and feed lightly if growth slows. Pots dry out faster than garden beds, so check them more often in summer.

 

CHAPTER 7

Water, Feed & Keep Them Growing

Kale is steady and forgiving once established, but young plants need water and protection.

Watering

Keep seedlings and new transplants watered so the soil does not dry out. Established kale usually needs extra water only during prolonged dry spells, though container plants need regular checks. Water at the base in the morning and avoid splashing soil onto leaves. Consistent moisture supports tender, healthy growth.

Mulch

Spread mature compost or another organic mulch around established plants to hold moisture and suppress weeds. Leave a little space around the stem to keep it from staying damp. Mulching is especially useful for summer transplants in Hungary, when dry weather can slow young kale down.

Feeding

A bed prepared with compost usually provides enough nutrients. If the soil is poor, or you are growing kale in a container, use an organic nitrogen-rich feed according to its label. Avoid overfeeding; remove weeds and keep plants watered so they can make steady leafy growth.

Keep plants healthy

Keep the bed weed-free while plants are young and remove yellow lower leaves as they age. Fine insect mesh helps prevent damage from cabbage caterpillars, flea beetles and pigeons. In autumn, stake tall plants in exposed positions so strong winds do not loosen their roots. Check beneath the leaves regularly.

 

CHAPTER 8

Leaves, Stems & “What Is That?”

Curly kale leaves can be green or purple, and the tightness of their ruffles depends on the variety.

Why are there holes in my leaves?

Caterpillars, flea beetles, slugs and birds may all damage kale leaves. Look closely under the leaves for eggs or caterpillars, and keep fine mesh in place before pests arrive. A few small holes are usually cosmetic; remove badly damaged leaves and rinse the rest well before cooking.

The beginner’s trouble guide

 

 

 

CHAPTER 9

Can I Pick It Yet?

Yes—when the lower leaves are full-sized and fresh. Pick two or three at a time, leaving the centre of the plant to make new leaves.

What “ready” looks like

For cooking, begin harvesting when the plant has made a strong crown of leaves, usually from autumn. Pick two or three of the lowest leaves at a time, snapping or cutting them close to the main stem. For baby leaves, start when the plants are about 10–15 cm tall. Leave the central growing tip intact so the plant keeps producing.

Harvest from autumn through winter

 

How often should I check?

Check plants once a week and pick the lower leaves you can use. Regular picking encourages new leaves and keeps the plant tidy. During cold weather, harvest when leaves are thawed and the weather allows; remove any leaves that have been badly damaged by frost or wind. Protect the growing point and leave plenty of healthy leaves on the plant.

 

 

CHAPTER 10

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Curly kale’s ruffled leaves are full of texture and work well in simple cooked dishes.

The first rule: wash between the curls

Curly leaves can hold soil and small insects, so rinse them carefully under cool running water. Pull the leafy parts away from the tough central ribs, then chop or tear them. Steam, sauté or add the leaves to soups and stews until tender. Young leaves can be sliced thinly for salads. Cook only what you need; kale shrinks as it softens.

Match the leaves to the dish

·  Young leaves: slice thinly into salads or sandwiches.

·  Mature leaves: sauté with garlic or add to soups.

·  Curly kale: roast briefly for crisp edges, watching closely.

·  Stems: chop finely and cook longer than the leaves.

 

Storing fresh curly kale

Use kale soon after picking for the best texture. Keep unwashed leaves in a loose bag in the refrigerator and rinse just before cooking. If the leaves begin to wilt, trim the stems and stand them briefly in cool water. Remove any yellow or slimy leaves before storing.

When you have more than you can use

Blanch chopped kale briefly, cool it quickly, drain well and freeze in meal-sized portions. Frozen leaves are softer, so use them in soups, stews or cooked side dishes. You can also harvest only a few leaves at a time rather than cutting whole plants, keeping a steady supply in the garden.

CHAPTER 11

Next Season Starts Now

A few notes about variety, spacing and winter performance will help you plan next year’s curly kale crop.

Keep a tiny garden record

·  Variety name and leaf colour

·  Date seeds were sown and seedlings appeared

·  When plants were transplanted and how they settled

·  How the bed held moisture during summer

·  When the first leaves were ready to pick

·  Which plants stayed healthy through winter

·  Which varieties tasted best

Saving seed and planning another crop

Kale usually flowers in its second year. If you want to save seed, leave a strong plant in the ground through winter and allow it to flower the following spring. Kale can cross with other flowering Brassica oleracea crops, and hybrid varieties may not come true from seed. For dependable results, fresh seed is simplest; otherwise, save from a suitable open-pollinated variety and keep it labelled.

1.         Choose a healthy plant with the leaf shape and flavour you liked.

2.         Leave it in place over winter and protect it from strong wind.

3.         Let it flower in spring and form seed pods.

4.         Wait for pods to dry; collect them before they split.

5.         Dry seeds fully, label the variety and year, then store cool and dry.

 

 

COME GROW WITH ME

CURLY KALE CHEAT SHEET

The page to come back to when you have soil on your hands and no time to reread the whole book.

 

 

 

COME GROW WITH ME • CURLY KALE

Horticultural reference: RHS, How to grow kale. Seasonal guidance is adapted for Hungarian home gardens.